Volvo PCV Diaphragm - FCP Euro 202171

2013 Volvo S60. Part fit perfectly. There are instructions left by some that says you need to remove more parts than needed. On my car there was plenty of room to work to get the cap off to replace the diaphragm. Cap snapped right back in place on reassembly.

2012 Volvo S60 T5 -- 114,000 miles Second time I've done this job. It's quick and easy. Everything after Step 1 can take 15 minutes. Suggestions based on my install (YMMV): 1) Run the car 10 to 15 minutes to warm up the engine. This makes the plastic more pliable / less prone to cracking. 2) Optionally, to give yourself more working room, partially remove the air cleaner housing. Pull up on it and wiggle it. You may need to loosen the two band clamps on the top air hose. You may also need to disconnect several wiring harnesses. Or not. The ECM is under the cover to the right of the air filter. Slide its cover up and off. Then disconnect its two big plugs by pressing the tab holding each red bale and then flipping the bale open. Now wiggle the housing to the right. This is all much easier than it sounds and literally takes a minute or two. 3) Clean all around the cap. Use brake clean or alcohol. 4) Gently poke a 1/2 inch chisel into the cap-to-body joint and twist to pop up the cap. A dull chisel is fine. Gently work it around the sides until the cap comes off by hand. 5) Pull the cap off. Remove the old diaphragm. Don't lose the spring. Notice the hole in the diaphragm. That's where the sound was coming from. 6) Clean the cap, housing body and spring. Use brake clean or alcohol. 7) Use a silver Sharpie to mark a vertical stripe across front of the cap and on the housing. Also mark the top of the vent at the rear of the cap. These marks will help with replacement alignment. 8) Use a hair dryer to heat up the cap and make it more pliable. You don't want it to crack or break. 9) Reassemble the cap, diaphragm and spring. 10) Install the cap assembly. Make sure the spring sits in the well in the center of the housing. Align the Sharpie marks: vent in back, vertical lines in front. 11) Get the rear edge of the cap hooked onto the housing lip. The cap and housing slot and tab should mate. 12) Press down on the front of the cap to get it partially seated. Use about a one-foot long piece of 1x2 wood to gently lever the front edge of the cap down until it is fully seated. Engage the far end of the wood under the aluminum casting. 13) If you disconnected the air cleaner housing, put all back together. 14) You're done. Admire your handiwork. Appreciate all the money you saved. Dave B. Retired engineer

Everything everyone said is true. I replaced my torn rubber nipple last year, before fcp had it so easily available. I had to buy two different ones from this German company (I don’t speak German, one fit one didn’t) I found later a small oil drip coming from the vacuum pump on the other side of this pressure equation. 13$ gasket. Intermediate ++ job. I’m going to buy either a whole new pcv system, or FCP euro’s cleaning /diaphragm/ hose kit , I’m 20k miles, 3 road trips later, no known failure. I just never cleaned the whole thing like some of these other review writers did. It’s an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cute.. thought… but this repair worked. And I was able to accomplish it with a flat head and some knuckle busting getting in there. Since my experience taking a whole lot more out of the way, it seems easy to me to get in there and do a much better job. Love FCP. This is not a paid advertisement. !Now I can spent my money on gas!

I have been ordering from FCP for a while now. Great customer support and service. Recently had an issue with the order shipping arrival, not any fault of theirs, but they took care of it before I even had to request an adjustment. This is the only place I will buy parts for my Volvo or BMW. Be well. Steven

2015 xc60 with "RNC" 5 cylinder engine ( VIN 61) with 127K miles was whistling at idle, sucking the oil cap and showing code for lean fuel mixture, P0171. This fixed it. I disconnected the air box and moved it toward driver's side for easier access. That step is easy on the xc60, unlike my old V50. Volvo made the small cars fiendishly difficult to work on by sqeezing the same 5 cyl. engine into a tiny bay. Good YouTube diy video out there.

My sister's V50 T5 has been squealing for a while, and I finally got around to installing this affordable, simple part. I had thought I'd need to replace the entire housing, but fortunately I gave just the diaphragm a try instead! Installation was fairly simple, the hardest part is popping off the plastic cap that the diaphragm sits under. (Careful with the spring!) I took the entire housing apart to clean, and reassembly was easy. On this specific car there were only four bolts holding on the housing, and they were all easily accessible. As soon as I started the engine the squeal was gone, and there was no more vacuum on the oil fill cap. Crazy how such a small part can make a big difference. Thanks, FCP!

Was the exact replacement part I suspected was bad. The old diaphragm was completely disintegrated.

Exact replacement for original and turned around very quickly.

Took a few days, but the code cleared. The old gasket was brittle and fell apart when i took it out of the cap!

The old diaphragm had a tear in it and made a really annoying noise at idle. I assume it also wasn't good for the engine. From the looks of it you could access the cap without removing the oil filter housing, but I took the extra time so I could clean out the ports and put a new seal on like they mention in the description. Part looked well made and fit perfectly, now I can spent my money on gas!