BMW Axle Shaft Assembly Front Right - GKN 31607505200

926mm OEM replacement axle assembly

It's hard to think that your CV axle is actually a complicated piece of equipment. When you think about it, a CV axle needs to be able to adapt to a wide range of motion between suspension movements and steering inputs while still transmitting power to the wheel. Over thousands of miles, various road and weather conditions, and time axle boots can tear or simply stretch and wear. If a tear occurs in a boot, the grease will leak out allowing for water and dirt to get into the joint. If caught soon enough, you can reboot the axle. However, if it is ignored an axle replacement will be needed. This is usually indicated by drive train vibrations under acceleration and clicking coming from the CV joints.

GKN Loebro is an OEM supplier to BMW for axle shaft and CV assemblies. This completely new unit will restore drivetrain function to your E46 xi model.

Fits These Cars:

2001 BMW 325xi Axle Shaft Assembly
Position: Front Right
2002 BMW 325xi Axle Shaft Assembly
Position: Front Right
2003 BMW 325xi Axle Shaft Assembly
Position: Front Right
2004 BMW 325xi Axle Shaft Assembly
Position: Front Right
2005 BMW 325xi Axle Shaft Assembly
Position: Front Right
2001 BMW 330xi Axle Shaft Assembly
Position: Front Right
2002 BMW 330xi Axle Shaft Assembly
Position: Front Right
2003 BMW 330xi Axle Shaft Assembly
Position: Front Right
2004 BMW 330xi Axle Shaft Assembly
Position: Front Right
2005 BMW 330xi Axle Shaft Assembly
Position: Front Right
Product match fitment

BMW Axle Shaft Assembly Front Right - GKN 31607505200

Brand:
GKN
SKU #:
304621
Part:
Axle Shaft Assembly
OE Numbers:
31607505200
FCP ID:
182860
$325.58 MSRP: $391.99
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Customer Reviews

Write a Review Average rating:
5.0 based on 4 review(s)
By: Danny Hamler
Thu, Feb 16 at 11:16AM
Fcp Customer Since 2005

2001 325xit manual 147,000 miles Being a fairly competent mechanic, I usually opt for less expensive parts from FCP. Their lifetime warranty gave me the piece of mind that if I ever had any problems I could easily swap the failed component(s) at a minimal cost. This mindset has worked well over the past 7 years until my wife's 325xit developed a clicking noise from the from axles. A quick inspection revealed that the OEM axle boots had cracked/split. At the time FCP have several replacement options ranging from $170- over $600. I chose the least expensive option and quickly learned why those axles were so cheap! After the install I could feel a vibration under acceleration in 1st-3rd gear. Thinking this problem was a separate issue, I replaced the Guibo, driveshaft, and rear diff bushing. 7,000 miles later, the boots completely disintegrated which prompted me to replace them with a rebuilt set from A1Cardone (based on a few suggestions on a popular E46 forum). That set lasted about 13,000 before failing and the vibration upon acceleration problem still persisted. This time I opted for the GKN set and they made all the difference in the world! Not only did they correct the vibration problem, they made the car easier to maneuver while modulating the clutch due to I believe to be a huge decrease in drivetrain play (that I thought was caused by a failing transfercase. For anyone considering a less expensive product, DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME, and don't forget to order a pair of driveshaft seals 33-10-7-505-601/104 or 01025620B(order 3 if you've never replaced them before).

By: Cody G.
Tue, Feb 14 at 6:00PM
This Is The One You Want.

I didn't waste time, after reading the stories on multiple forums of peoples problems with aftermarket/rebuilt axles. It's been about 6000 miles and no issues. They're expensive but these are the ones you will keep for a long time.

By: Ryan
Tue, Oct 25 at 9:12AM

BMW axle shafts without the BMW name or "price". Still quite a bit more than lesser axles (I tried them) save yourself the time and headache and get these, you will not be disappointed!

By: DIYinSTL
Tue, May 26 at 1:42PM
Veteran Do It Yourselfer

The right front axle ('02 325XiT) is the biggest job I've tackled on this car, thank goodness there are lots of online videos to review before taking it on. The most important lesson I can pass on is that the tie rod did not need to be disconnected. Second would be that some videos comment on a "missing part", the ring that fits into the differential housing; be sure to move it over from the old axle to the new. Third lesson is that the effort to pop the axle in that last little bit is surprisingly high and a bit of a challenge doing it by yourself. I ended up using a short length of 2x4 as a lever to get it close (using the control arm as a fulcrum) and whacking the 2x4 right behind the axle stub with a really big hammer. Finally, the lower control arm connects via a small arm or rod to a lever on a box that controls the headlight up and down motion. It is really easy to have this lever on the box spin 180 degrees from its correct location and then your headlights no longer to the up and down thing when you start the car nor will they adjust properly when driving. Make note of the correct position before disassembly and again when you put things back together. If you mess it up, the easiest way to fix it is to remove the 2 nuts holding the bracket and rod to the lower control arm, spin the lever around and reassemble. It's been a year now and have absolutely no complaints with the replacement axle. It's a brand new product yet still far less expensive than having the dealer replace a torn boot, and only a few bucks more than a rebuilt part. When the left front boot goes again I'll get the companion axle and replace it too. I'm still debating what to do with the old axle: recycle as scrap or see if my local parts store can give it to their vendor for rebuild?

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