Great quality part, ships with protective cover on impeller. I except this water pump to last for years to come. Make sure to lubricate the O ring, no leaks after install.

Replaced the water pump as a preventative measure. To my surprise, the original pump was still in perfect working condition after 120,000 miles with no sign of wear or leak. The bearing didn't even have slightest play in it. Hope the new one was made with the same quality.

Seleri water pump replaced after 5 years.

Replaced OE water pump with Stewart's aftermarket water pump, which is significantly more expensive, in order to prevent the possibility of the plastic impeller from braking into pieces. Failed after 45K, save yourself the time and money and get this pump instead.

It looks just like the original bmw pump. The fit was direct without any problems

The Saleri Water Pump is the correct choice. My thermostat needed to be replaced, so decided to go ahead and do the water pump at the same time. When I removed everything the bearings on the old pump were still solid with no play at the pulley attachment. The machining on the unit was impressive.

good quality, exact same as the original part, which had not began leaking after 5 years. Just replaced it with everything else.

Fits great. ('01 330i E46)

Same impeller as the OE one I removed. Perfect fit

Looking at the original and the Saleri, I see no difference. I've only got 5 minutes running time but so far so good and this is one of the easiest maintenance jobs I've done on this car. Helpful hints: 1) If your pump was leaking like a sieve as mine was, don't bother draining the system unless you are planning a flush or full fluid change. Just drop the front belly pan. 2) After you pull the air intake scoop and box, and the fan shroud (#25 torx on the car's right, a pain in the butt to remove expando thingy on the left) draw a picture of the belt path before loosening the 4 pulley bolts and taking the belt off of it. The tensioner takes an 8mm allen wrench; get one to go on your breaker bar. This would be a good tool for FCP to carry. 3) The pulley is plastic so be gentle knocking it off and don't heat with a torch like I almost did. In hindsight, I would have ordered a new one with the pump and suggest you do. Check the grooves for built up crud. I used a small flat screwdriver the scrape the hard build-up out of mine. 4) The engineers were kind enough to include a couple threaded M6 holes to back out the pump. 6mm x 25 mm worked fine, 20mm may work and you can certainly go longer. Snug them up and alternate 1/4 turns. One of the holes was a bit crusty so I packed the new ones with grease in case I ever do this again in the distant future. Don't forget to remove the 4 nuts holding the pump in place first. 5) The pump cavity was surprisingly clean. To protect the new o-ring I used a worn out scotch-brite near the outer edge to scrub off a bit of crud then wiped it clean. You can use undiluted antifreeze to lube the new o-ring though I took another DIYer's suggestion to use some K-Y and it slid right in. 6) The holes for the pulley are NOT at 90 degrees to each other so turn the pump shaft so two wide spaced holes are horizontal and line up the pulley accordingly. I took my time and a couple breaks yet finished in about 3 hours. This is easy. Do it.